3 meter kit instructions
Overview
This guide outlines the step-by-step process for constructing a 3m wide Tassie Tunnels tunnel house. The construction methods apply to all lengths in the 3m range with only the number of hoops, ridge pipe sections and plastic length varying. Designed for Tasmanian conditions, these tunnels prioritise strength, ease of assembly and wind resistance.
Parts Supplied
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35mm galvanised steel hoop sections
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35mm galvanised ridge pipe
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32mm galvanised cross supports
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32mm galvanised end hoop braces
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32mm galvanised angle braces
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35mm clamps and connection hardware
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16mm reinforcing bar ground stakes
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Door frame components
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Door support components
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Wiggle wire channel
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Wiggle wire
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8.5m wide, 180gsm UV-stabilised greenhouse plastic
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Rope tie-down system
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Brace plates
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6mm stainless steel shackles
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Tek screws, bolts, washers and nuts
3. Tools Required
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Post driver or sledgehammer
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Cordless drill or impact driver
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Tape measure (minimum 8m)
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String line
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Spirit level
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Ladder
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Pliers
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Marker or chalk
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Hacksaw or angle grinder (for trimming pipe where required)
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Safety glasses
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Work gloves
4. Site Preparation
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Select a flat, well-drained site.
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Where practical, position the tunnel so the flat ends are not facing the prevailing strong winds. This will help reduce wind loading on the structure.
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5. Ground Post Installation
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Install the first corner stake.
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Install the second corner stake on the same side of the tunnel, measuring the required tunnel length between the two corner stakes.
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Run a string line tightly between the two corner stakes.
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Install the remaining ground stakes along this side, and add anchor plates with carabinas ensuring they are aligned with the string line and spaced at the correct 1.2m centres for your tunnel kit.
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Install the corner stakes on the opposite side.
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Ensure the carabiners are facing the outside of the tunnel.
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Ensure the welded brackets face the opposite corner of the tunnel.
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Measure 3m across from the first side to position the opposite side.
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Measure the diagonals and adjust until both measurements are equal to ensure the tunnel is square.
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Install the remaining ground stakes on the second side using the string line as a guide.
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Drive each 16mm reinforcing bar ground stake approximately 800mm into the ground, ensuring all stakes finish at the same height above ground level.
6. Construct Hoops
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Lay out the two bent sections on a flat surface. Numbered and marked. Keeping 1 left and right together.
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Join each section using 200mm long 32mm pipe joiners.
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Secure each 200mm pipe joiner using two tek screws.
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Ensure all tek screws face the inside of the tunnel to help protect the plastic cover.
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Lift the completed hoop onto the ground stakes.
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Keep all lefts on the same side.
7. Install the Hoops
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Starting at one end of the tunnel, lift the first completed hoop into position and slide both legs over the ground stakes.
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Continue installing the remaining hoops, ensuring they are fitted in the correct order according to the Brace Band Layouts.
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Check that each hoop is fully seated on the ground stakes and standing vertically.
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Confirm the spacing between hoops matches 1.2m
8. Install the 3m Cross Supports
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Starting at one end of the tunnel, install the 2m 32mm cross support onto the first hoop.
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Secure the cross support to the brace bands using the supplied brace bands.
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Continue installing one cross support on every hoop.
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Leave all bolts slightly loose until every cross support has been installed.
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Check that all hoops remain vertical and evenly spaced.
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Tighten all bolts securely.
8. Ridge Pipe Installation
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Starting at one end of the tunnel, install ridge cradle ,place the first 2.4m 35mm ridge pipe into the ridge cradle on the end hoop.
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Secure with cross clamp on second hoop, continue along.
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Position the next 2.4m 35mm ridge pipe and join it to the previous section using a 200mm long 32mm pipe joiner.
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Secure each join using two tek screws, ensuring both screws face the inside of the tunnel.
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Continue adding 2.4m ridge pipe sections, joining each section with a 200mm long 32mm pipe joiner as you work your way down the tunnel.
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Finish by securing the final ridge pipe section into the ridge cradle on the opposite end hoop.
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Stand back and sight along the ridge pipe to ensure it is straight before fully tightening all clamps and fixings.Cut off extra pipe ,taking care to keep it inside the hoop edge.
10. Install the Angle Braces
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Install four 1.45m angle braces, with two at each end of the tunnel
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Install all angle braces in the same direction, running from the higher brace band to the lower brace band.
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Secure each angle brace using the supplied clamps, bolts and nuts.Keeping 1.2m spacing.
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Tighten all bolts securely.
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Install tek screws through each corner anchor brace clamp.
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Check that all angle braces are secure and that the tunnel frame is rigid with no movement.
Installer Tip: Leave the angle brace bolts slightly loose until all braces have been fitted. Once installed, tighten all bolts and then install the tek screws into the corner anchor brace clamps.
11. Door Frame Installation
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Assemble the door frame to the desired opening size.
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Position the door frame centrally in the end hoop.
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Install two rio bars and anchor plates then 35mm × 2.2m door uprights on each side of the door opening.Trim to size.
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Fit 35mm clamps to the bottom of each door upright
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Install 32mm brace clamps to where the 3m cross support connects to the door uprights.
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Install one 35mm sliding adjustment pipe between each end corner and the corresponding door upright (two adjustment pipes per door frame).
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Check that the door frame is square and plumb using a spirit level.
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Tighten all clamps and bolts securely. Tek screw the slide bars
Installer Tip: Leave the sliding adjustment pipes slightly loose until the door frame has been aligned. Once the frame is square and plumb, fully tighten all clamps and bolts.
12. Wiggle Wire Channel Installation
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Install the wiggle wire channel to both top end hoops using 2m channel sections.
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Bend the channel around the curve of the hoop.
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Keep the channel centred on the pipe and secure it using tek screws every 300mm as you work around the hoop.
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Continue installing 2m channel sections until each end hoop is complete.Some will need cutting
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Install wiggle wire channel the full length of the 2m end cross support, keeping it centred and securing it with tek screws every 300mm.
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Install wiggle wire channel to both door uprights.
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Check that all joins are neat and there are no sharp edges or protruding screws that could damage the plastic cover.
13. Main Plastic Installation
IMPORTANT: Install the plastic on a calm day with little or no wind.
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Unroll the 8.5m wide greenhouse plastic alongside the tunnel, taking care not to drag it across sharp objects.
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Pull the plastic evenly over the tunnel and centre it from side to side.
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Leave approximately 1m of plastic overhanging each end of the tunnel.Don’t waste the plastic as the ends and door come from the same bit.
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Starting at one end, secure the plastic into the wiggle wire channel along the end hoop.
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Work from the centre of the hoop towards both sides, keeping the plastic straight and wrinkle-free.
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Move to the opposite end and pull the plastic tight by hand before securing it into the wiggle wire channel.
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Check that the plastic is centred and evenly tensioned before continuing.
Installer Tip: Pull the plastic as tight as possible before locking it into the wiggle wire. Tight plastic will last longer, flap less in the wind, and give a better finished appearance.
14. Rope Tie-Down Installation
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The rope tie-down system can be installed either after the main plastic has been fitted or after the end plastic has been completed.
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Starting at one end of the tunnel, tie the rope securely to the first carabiner.
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Run the rope over the tunnel to the second carabiner, then back over the tunnel to the third carabiner.
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Continue this crossover pattern for the full length of the tunnel.
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Pull each rope section tight by hand before tying it off.
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Tie each section individually using a slip knot. Do not use one continuous rope for the full length of the tunnel.
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Repeat the same process from the opposite side of the tunnel.
15. End Plastic Installation
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Cut the end plastic to size, leaving enough excess material for tensioning and trimming.
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Position the plastic over the end hoop, ensuring it is centred.
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Starting at the top centre of the end hoop, install the wiggle wire to secure the plastic.
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Work evenly down both sides of the hoop, alternating from left to right to keep the plastic straight and evenly tensioned.
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Pull the plastic tight as you work around the hoop, removing any wrinkles.
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Finish by securing the plastic to the 2m end cross support using wiggle wire.
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Trim any excess plastic using a sharp knife or scissors.
Installer Tip: A light fold down the centre of the plastic can be used as a guide to help keep the end sheet centred on the tunnel.
17. Door Assembly & Installation
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Assemble the door frame to suit the finished door opening.
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Install wiggle wire channel around the perimeter of the door frame.
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Keep the wiggle wire channel centred on the frame and secure it using tek screws every 300mm.
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Lay the door on a clean, flat surface and position the plastic over the frame.
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Starting at the top centre, secure the plastic into the wiggle wire channel.
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Work evenly around the door frame, keeping the plastic tight and wrinkle-free.
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Trim any excess plastic from around the door.
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Hang the completed door using the supplied three heavy-duty hinges.
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Secure each hinge using the supplied tek screws (approximately three screws per hinge leaf, or as required).
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Check that the door opens and closes freely and adjust if required.
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Add door latch and drill hole in pipe to close.
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Trim plastic and bury excess to keep wind out.
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